Tantabiddi to Carnarvon

On Friday 25th September as we were enjoying a bottle of Friday bubbles Pioneer sailed into the anchorage at Tantabiddi. We had first met Peter in the Kimberley and we swapped travel tales of sailing the west coast of WA over a few evening drinks. Pioneer is on the final leg of its circumnavigation of Australia heading for Perth. On the leg Peter had Bob Emery as crew assisting him.

Our last night in Tantabiddi we enjoyed a beautiful meal of reef fish caught by Cran and left early the following morning for Norwegian Bay where we anchored overnight on our way to Coral Bay. Norwegian Bay is the site of an old whaling station now in ruins on the beach. The water here was crystal clear and as we swam off the back of the boat we could see many small star fish on the white sandy bottom, white with pink/red dots.

Our next destination was Maud’s Landing, just north of Coral Bay. This part of Ningaloo Reef is famous for the variety of colourful coral and fish. We spent 4 days here with very strong winds once again. Luckily we were able to use a Dept of Conservation mooring buoy. Cran cooked our dinner on the BBQ in 30 plus knots one evening – notice the polar fleece vest!

The township of Coral Bay was a half hour walk from where we could take our dinghy ashore. This part of the reef has many sanctuary zones where boating is restricted or prohibited. Coral Bay was very busy with school holiday campers and visitors. It has two small supermarkets, clothing stores, newsagency and post office, so all our shopping needs were met. There were many tourist businesses offering water related activities from glass bottom boat tours to deep sea fishing outside the reef. Situated behind the town are 3 tall wind generators visible from quite a distance off shore.

The reef is very accessible and we just had to walk in off the beach to snorkel. The water temperature not quite as warm as further north however the cabbage shaped corals were spectacular as were than many reef fish, some quite large as they cruised below us among the bommies. The turquoise water crystal clear and the white coral sand match all the superlatives on the travel brochures.

Time to head south again and Saturday 3rd October saw us heading towards Carnarvon. Just after we cleared the reef at the entrance to Coral Bay we caught a 1.3 metre Mackerel – well done Cran for landing this monster. We enjoyed BBQ Mackerel that evening for dinner at our overnight anchorage at Gnarraloo Bay where we dropped the anchor close to the beach where people were fishing. As the moon rose the sky filled with pinks and mauves above the sand dunes.
Leaving early the following morning for Cape Cuvier surf was breaking across the reef. As we approach and leave these anchorages we keep a forward lookout for isolated bommies as we motor through the passages in the reef. The reflection of the sunlight on the water adds an additional challenge and keeps the adrenaline pumping. The seas are lumpy with choppy seas and steep swells close together – not a comfortable ride. As we lurch around the boat making tea, coffee, lunch etc our balance and agility is tested. It is a relief at the end of each day to set the anchor and enjoy the view from the back deck.
Cape Curvier would have to be the biggest surprise on our trip south with 60 metre high limestone and sandstone cliffs rising up from the sea. As you can see from the photo we were anchored quite close to shore in deep water, with surf breaking on the shoreline. After weeks on low sand dunes and distant limestone ridges the change of scenery was appreciated. While enjoying sunset drinks a herd of goats made their way along the cliff top and down and across the precipitous slopes looking for food. We enjoyed a spectacular sunset that evening as it dropped over the horizon through the structure of the jetty where salt and gypsum is loaded on ships for export. That evening was full moon and as it rose over the cliffs the moonlight lit them to a creamy glow. This was a magic experience and when we left at 3am the following morning it was sad to leave such a beautiful location. We were fortunate to have the right wind and wave conditions to enjoy this anchorage.

We arrived in Carnarvon after a long day of lumpy seas however we did see many whales close to the boat as they make their way south. Carnarvon is a low flat town with a strong agricultural industry, growing bananas originally brought in from Queensland. We spent the last few days of Carmel’s time with us sightseeing, the historical precinct at One Mile Jetty with its Lighthouse Keepers Cottage and Rail Museum as well as the long jetty the was used for many years for the transport of produce and livestock and well as the people travelling this long coast before the road network was constructed. After lunch at the River Café on the banks of the mostly dry Gascoyne River, we drove up the coast to the Blowholes through low scrub and desert and visited some of the farms along the Gascoyne River to purchase eggs, chutneys and bananas. Water for the farms and the local residents comes from aquifers taking the water from below the dry river bed.



Today 14th October we depart Carnarvon after enjoying just over a week sitting out strong winds in the protected reach of the Gascoyne known as the Fascine. The Carnarvon Yacht Club provides facilities for a small fee and access to a small dinghy pontoon which makes life easier when going ashore. The town centre is a 10 minute walk along the river. We finally caught up with Mike & Chrisy off Ohmless, a Fusion 40 cat - we were in the Kimberley at the same time but didn't meet up and we were leaving while they were arriving at both Broome & Dampier. Mike & Chrisy sailed out of WA 29 years ago in a mono and after many shore based years are completing their circumnavigation of Australia in a catamaran. It was good to spend some time with them in Carnarvon. We have also met many other yachties who have generously shared their local knowledge of this part of the coast south to Perth, and beyond. Many thanks to them. We have made new friends who we hope to catch up with as we sail south or perhaps meet up again in other locations over the next few years. It has been an opportunity to catch up on boat maintenance, service engines, fix water makers and gensets, repair engine water pumps and an engine mount for the port engine as well as the usual cleaning and washing and shopping for provisions for the next leg of our journey. We have enjoyed our stay in Carnarvon and look forward to our next destinations.